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Old 03-22-2007, 08:30 PM   #11
Greg Everett
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SHE is just a sport climber - so bouldering and mainly short to mid-length routes. no super pro or anything.

andrew - i think i posted her initial program on here somewhere.... can't find it right now. i will try to locate and link
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Old 03-22-2007, 08:31 PM   #12
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ok found it:
http://www.performancemenu.com/forum...read.php?t=483
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Old 03-23-2007, 09:15 AM   #13
David Aguasca
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I like that program. I'm about to start something similar: One day of Starting Strength, 1 day on rings, and 1 day bouldering inside, then 1 day doing long routes outside.

so, as far as the measuring progress goes...i think the system board idea is great, if you can find/build one. i also stand by my earlier suggestion of setting short term goals (problems/routes to send) just out of her reach. maybe 2-3 of them. if she's looking to perform outside, then do it outside. if inside, then inside.
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Old 07-08-2007, 02:10 PM   #14
Chris Rice
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Measuring and training are two different things of course. Comparisons of measurements of the difficulty ratings of a fairly large number of routes including various types (crack, face, etc) should take care of the "are you progressing" question - harder numbers equals harder climbs done.

Training. Climbing is about climbing - not about lifting and 25 years of climbing and almost 50 years of lifting have driven that home to me repeatedly. Climbing is about fixing weak points and lifting may or may not address your particular weak points. Often something like Yoga or Tai Chi can make a bigger jump in your numbers than doubling your chin up numbers - depending of course on what you need. Those of us that love to lift see it as the cure for everything and climbing is just so multi faceted and yet horribly specific than it won't fit into a simple category that way. If there is a secret to climbing - it's learning the engrams and body positions that keep the weight off your hands as much as possible as long as possible - saving them for the times when there is no choice but to use them. I run a climbing wall and also coach climbers there, the single biggest problem I see is climbers "climbing" instead of "practicing" - and the difference is huge. To be a better climber you must constantly be working on improving "engrams" or movement patterns that allow the most efficient manner of movement possible through a difficult (or easy) section. Only after this does increased strength matter.

That being said - one rep max strength does matter - especially in regards to the infamous "pump". At a certain percentage of 1RM, blood flow effectively stops through a muscle - usually thought to be around 60%. So increasing 1RM finger and forearm strength does work. You must to constantly aware of gaining weight - even muscular weight - as it is the enemy of better climbing. All strength work, diet, and supplementation must be done with this in mind.

A real analysis of weak areas and a plan that addresses them will work better than an overall approach of strength and fitness. For beginners and intermediates especially, climbing and "practicing climbing" on something like a system board will give better results than weightlifting.
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