Gymnastics Training and Rock Climbing
New to the forum. Cool place though - love the wealth of knowledge just by looking at forum posts.
Anyways, main thing I'd like to get input for is my rock climbing training. I am fairly new to the unconventional way of training. Started CrossFit style training about a year ago to supplement my half-marathon training. Ever since CrossFit, I have left the endurance scene after years of forcing myself of liking it! About 6 months ago, I got into rock climbing (very novice) and a month ago I got a membership in an indoor wall gym.
I'd say I'm about intermediate strength/skill wise with some of the general standards. I am a female, 5'3" and 110lbs and a total ectomorph - so for my size, I'd say I'm doing alright.
After doing some research on what would optimize my rock climbing (with a focus on boulder/sport) training, I came to a conclusion that gymnastics training would be super ideal for this sort.
So just getting some input for those in the gymnastics/rock climbing area of how I can program my training.
I just bought the BtGB book (without the DVDs) and I have access to rings, pull-up bars and parallel bars at my gym.
What are your current abilities?
Not sure what intermediate strength/skill standards are
do you have any particular gymnastics goals?
Bench Press 0.75xBW
Shoulder Press 0.6xBW
Can do 10 strict pull-ups, 15 strict dips, 60s handstand hold and l-sits.
For my gymnastic goals I want to be able to advance through front/back lever progressions, and other static movements like manna and planche. Nothing too crazy. Just to supplement my climbing training. But I can't find some sort of programming that I can do! Just overwhelmed with new material, I suppose.
I have also heard that it is best to solely do gymnastic training, and not incorporating weights at all? I am not trying to get big or anything - just performance.
Also, I am concerned with the amount of pulling that I do with gymnastics might make my tendons overtrained
I've been bouldering for 10 years, messing around with some gymnastics elements for a few years, and feel I can comment on this with some authority. Just about any bodyweight routine will help your bouldering A LOT. The unique stuff it does for the stabilizers and core carry over very well to climbing. To wit: when I worked at a climbing gym in town you could always tell who were the experienced yoga/gymnast types. Where newbies often struggled with basics, these people (still newbies, mind you) were only limited by their pain tolerance and understanding of technique. They would often cruise 5.10c/d toprope routes on their first trip to the gym. That won't mean much to a non-climber.. but it's really impressive to watch in context.
If you plan to train both, you do need to be careful though.. the demands on your shoulders, especially with how short you are, are going to be significant. At your height you will need to go to full extension to do moves on boulder problems that someone only a few inches taller will cruise easily, and that part of shoulder ROM is where most climbers get hurt. Adding gymnastics training, potential scar tissue and an imbalance between prime movers and stabilizers isn't going to help. My point? Make SURE you take your time to warm up and recover.
Also, be sure you work opposing muscles. Climbers often decide, after years of climbing, that they should start doing pushups to balance everything out. They then get injured. If you develop the pressing/pushing muscles from the outset you'll have healthier shoulders (and posture) in the long run. Plus the press elements of gymnastics are a lot of fun, and damn impressive, especially when it's a grown woman doing them.
BtGB is an awesome place to start, and should serve you well. Just figure out where your weaknesses are and focus on that. I'd say the whole gymnastics program, plus a healthy bouldering/sport climbing obsession, are probably too much in combination. That would be a TON of abuse on your upper body.
Which tendons are you worried about specifically? Finger flexors shouldn't be an issue with the gymnastics, but certainly could be with climbing. Muscle grows a lot faster than tendon, and while we are wired up to protect the tendons if they get overloaded, it DOES happen. I've had issues with the distal biceps tendon off-and-on for years. Through trial and error I've learned that when my diet is really clean (ie: anti-inflammatory) and I warm up adequately, I don't have problems. It goes back to the bit about warming up and taking time for recovery. This will be very important for what it sounds like you want to do.
I wish you well with it.. I'm always excited when I hear about someone going through that initial phase of getting stoked on climbing.
There are at least a couple of climbers on Coach Sommer's forum (the author of the BtGB book) who are integrating progressions from the book with their climbing.
I'm pretty sure at least one of them posts in the workout log section so you should be able to glean something from there.
Bea, the general programming for BtGB is the daily WOD, which runs on a 28 day cycle of 4 weeks with 4 workouts per week on MTuThF.
You can follow it as posted or you do the static movements before hitting the daily WOD.
If you need any more information on this, PM me and I will go over what has been presented to the public on the GB forum without giving away seminar material. Of late, some of the daily WOD static work has been let out by the seminar but you'd have to dig through the forum and it's not stickied, I think.
Kilroy's program is fine to start.
If you're climbing a lot you can easily just cut down on the volume some.
I assume you have read the bodyweight article in my sig yes?
That's approximately where you should start given your abilities.
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