Thread: 90%+ Training
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Old 02-07-2007, 10:30 AM   #3
Greg Everett
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Join Date: Oct 2006
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I whipped up a training template for a climber recently. Basically she climbs in a gym 1 night/week and outdoors 1 day/week. So 4 days a week, she does a single strength/power element, i.e. day 1 = deadlift, day 2 = weighted dip, day 3 = power clean, day 4 = weighted pull-up. She has at least 2 exercises for each type of movement that she can rotate periodically, e.g. press instead of weighted dip. For these she's doing rep schemes like 8x3 or 10x2 (power cleans are 5 x 2 or 5 x 3). Then she has 1 day/week to work stamina for each of those movement types, i.e. leg/hip, pushing and pulling, so she'll do basically a circuit with a few movements for the type in question to get some volume and variation in--these workouts are different each week. Similar approach to abs/core--basically she does some high-instensity, low rep movement, then in a week makes sure she covers all possible angles, i.e. flexion, side bending, rotation, etc., as well as static and dynamic. Also works active flexibility 4 days/week, does 1-2 monostructural interval sessions/week and a few other odd things.

She has a pretty good recovery capacity, so she may be able to manage more work than you; or, you might be able to manage more than her. I would suggest starting out conservatively in terms of adding more training and watch closely how it affects your climbing. If you['re doing something with calculated periodization, you may have to take a hit in your climbing for a period while really hitting the strength elements, then back off to maintain that new strength and bring the climbing-specific stamina back up.
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